Last modified 2005 APR 07 04:37:58 GMT |
To: xj-s@jag-lovers.org
So, I posted here last week about the factory cassette and the security code
(which was restored to operation when the water evaporated, BTW). Couldn't
find any reference to how to de-code it, so I bit the bullet and purchased a
new stereo (though I still need to address the slight water leakage from
above, which seems to have been from rain).
[revised 18 JUN 1998] Well, actually, after the NEW stereo shorted out
unexpectedly a few weeks ago (causing a corresponding constant drain on the
battery), I found that the A/C was occasionally dripping on the stereo - it
had nothing to do with an external water leak. Mixed blessings I guess.
After receiving a new replacement Sony ES XRC 8200, I
reinstalled it today accompanied by a 5 mil sheet of mylar installed over the
top of the stereo cage and extending past the back of the stereo, with bent
tangs down either side (just to the rear of the cage). After installation,
I confirmed that the mylar was still sitting on the stereo properly by
sighting it from either side with the console vent panels removed.
I've got some notes for the install, should anyone be interested:
There is a 10A blade fuse in the passenger-side fuse panel for the Radio/Cig
Lighter.
There is an inline 2A (TDC 91) fuse under the centre console for the radio
(although the factory service manuals call it a 1A (this may be a function of
the difference between US and UK ratings standards) and place it "behind the
stereo"). I found this after the new stereo popped it (requiring me to
disassemble the console while following the power lead). On my LHD version,
the fuse is on the driver side of the shifter assembly, and was wiretied to a
bundle and taped to another (ie, you have to untape it to get a fuse in and
out, AND it is tight working because there isn't a lot of play with the
wire).
Both the stock stereo and (my) new replacement are fitted with 10A blade
fuses as well.
Anyway, removal of the stereo is fairly straightforward:
Park on a level surface and be sure to engage the parking break. Move the
gear selector down to 1st gear (to give you clearance to the stereo).
Remove the two environmental knobs by firmly pulling them. Note that they
don't interchange (they're notched 180' out from each other) - but figuring
out which one is which is easy - the FAN should be off when you do this
(well, I normally don't turn the car off with things ON), and that one will
have the indicator facing down when you reassemble.
Behind the knobs are keyed nuts. Remove by using an appropriatley-sized
flatbladed screwdriver while pushing in on the face plate (reducing the back
pressure on the nut).
Once you have the two nuts out (one on each control shaft), you should remove
the stereo face trim (this didn't seem to be on too tight - it came off
easily enough). Use an allen wrench or some other small bent piece of metal
and gently insert it between the stereo and the facing along the side of the
stereo (there is some space there), and pull the facing forward a bit at a
time (possibly alternating sides). You can also do the same along the bottom
of the facing (near the console) and along the top (below the light switches
and trip computer).
Note that there are wires along the bottom edge, and they don't have a long
play, so you'll be pulling the TOP DOWN rather than the bottom up when you
clear the front of the stereo housing. Be careful: there are fibre optics
here for lighting.
To either side of the stereo are two screws. Remove them and slowly pull the
stereo outward. Disconnect the stereo from the two harnesses (speakers and
power/controls), unscrew the grounding strap and unplug the antenna. Remove
stereo. Note: I reconnected the stereo, and at least within a 5-10 minute
timeframe, it is still operational with security code intact).
Because I'm not currently rewiring the speakers, I opted to retain the
existing wiring harnesses - which I clipped from the old stereo, and
installed bullet plugs on (leaving enough wire on the old stereo to be able
to easily install bullet plugs on it should I ever re-install). The original
speaker harness is 9-position in 3x3 arrangement, though only 8 conductors are
used (2 for each of the four speakers).
The speaker wires are labeled with yellow strips further in the dash.
Striped is (-), so install bullet recepticles (female) on those wires from
the plug, and bullets (male) on the solid coloured wires. These correspond
to the standard bullet plug wiring that most new stereo harnesses should have
(the last four I've installed have been this way at least).
When crimping on the stereo-side harnesses (from the OLD stereo), I'm
assuming you've popped them out of the car with the old stereo, THEN clipped
them from the stereo to work on them - don't do it on a live system.
On the power harness (6 conductors in a 2x3 arrangement), we have a red,
yellow, white, black, and white+red wire. The black conductor (stereo side)
is N/C on the car side - just wrap it around the others (after you've crimped
the bullets on the others). The Red is +12v constant (often the actual
source of current for modern stereos - it is used for memory and clock - but
also for auto head-disengagement on ignition off. This is the line that runs
to the fuse box and has an inline fuse under the console), the Yellow is +12v
accessory (the signal that says "turn on" - may also be primary power to the
unit - or generally used to be), the white is antenna (+12v out FROM the
stereo when you use the Radio), and the white+red is +12v lighting (your
stereo may or may not have an input signal for this - it allows the stereo to
dim when the lights are turned on).
Crimp a male bullet to the antenna connector on the harness, and female
bullets to all the others (I'm specifying gender only because if a wire were
to manage loose, you don't want the +12v source lines to have exposed metal
contacts to make ground with - thus you make them the females/recepticles
which are better shielded (I don't have any of those clear soft-rubber
insulator boots like you'll find on most new wiring harnesses, which would
eliminate this problem).
Crimp a female bullet to the antenna connector on the STEREO harness (the one
included with the new stereo), and male bullets on all the power/light leads.
Okay, Wiring 101 is basically complete. Now for the stereo framing (the REAL
work). All new stereos I've ever purchased have included a mounting frame,
which the stereo itself slides into. We're going to modify this. I'm going
from memory on this part, but what you need is some medium gauge sheet metal
(the same gauge you might do flashing with for house gutters) and to cut two
pieces about 1.5" wide, and as long as the stereo cage is high (going from
memory, it is around 2" to 2 1/8"). Eyeball the old stereo and mark the two
pieces of metal and bend them at about the same point (placing them in a vise
and tapping them over with a hammer works well). Line them up on either side
of the stereo cage and compare the clearances with the old stereo (you want
something with the same reach for the screw holes -- but not too much more,
because it will interfere with the environmental controls). Mark the points
for drilling some slots into them (to match the screw holes in the original).
You want oversize holes because you need some room to adjust the position with
(this whole cut/bend/drill thing being something less than precision
engineering). Drill the holes in the metal (I have a metal drillpress and a
drilling vise, which makes drilling the pre-bent metal much easier - with a
bit of wood under the sheet metal for support and drill buffering). Hold
these up to the sides of the cage and compare against the original. Re-drill
as necessary.
Despite the fact that the original stereo had a groove cut out from between
the two screw holes on either side, I found that straight sheetmetal on
either side worked fine and didn't interfere with the environmental controls
(as long as the sheetmetal didn't extend too far past the limits of the screw
holes).
BTW, I would suggest that you mark one of the tabs as L (left) and the other
as R (right), and stick to using them in that order, since you'll no doubt
have subtle variations in the alignment of the two against the sides of the
cage (especially so for this next part -- I've yet to see a stereo cage that
is symetrical in the way the pre-cut tabs are organized on the sides).
Okay, now for the precision part. Reattach the facing trim piece to the old
stereo and take the new stereo and insert it into the cage. Lay the two
stereos next to each other on their sides (next to the edge of a worktop, so
the tangs on the old stereo don't make it sit weird), and position the new
stereo such that the back of the trim plate on it is about even with the back
of the trim plate on the old stereo. Set the made tang (with the flush part
facing the BACK of the new stereo) on the new stereo and mark its position.
Repeat for the opposite side with the plate for that side (or measure your
mark on the first side, and remark the opposite to match). Eyeball a good
spot on either side for two 1/8" drill holes in the cage (as they generally
are not solid metal on either side). Mark and set punch, then drill the cage
(I moved the drill plate to one side, then placed a piece of scrap wood in
the cage, and drilled it that way). Then place the metal tabs on either side
and mark them through the holes. Set punch them, and drill. line them up to
the cage and pass through a pair of 1/8" rivets (FROM THE INSIDE OF THE CAGE).
These may be a tight squeeze, so when drilling, it might help to excercise
the hole a LITTLE bit when drilling (both the tabs and the cage). Pop the
rivets and trim the excess on the outside (these shouldn't interfere with much
though).
Test fit the stereo into the cage. The rivets shouldn't interfere much with
the movement of the stereo in and out.
Install the cage into the car. If you made the holes slightly oversized as
suggested, you'll probably need washers for the original screws. Tighten
enough that you can nudge the cage but that it holds position. Eyeball
center, then test fit the facing panel in front, and adjust until it looks
better centred. Repeat, then tighten the screws all the way.
Pull the wiring harnesses, grounding strap, and antenna lead through the cage.
Hook up bullet plugs as appropriate to the wiring schematic for the stereo
(note: in my case, the yellow and red wires hooked up to the opposite colour
on the car's harness, so don't assume that the colour codes are going to
match). Connect the grounding strap to the rear of the stereo, and ground
line from the stero harness as well. You may find that you need a small
washer to do this -- in my case, the head on the screw that was threaded for
the new stereo was much smaller than the hole in the grounding strap.
Plug in the speaker harness (this may be something you choose to do after you
have the stereo running, as you can manually isolate which speaker pair is
which - at least, this is how I confirmed which wires were which before
inserting the stereo into the car dash).
Do a sanity check of the wiring, and turn the key to accessory (1), and see
if your stereo lights up. It should. Listen to it, realize that the world
of DIY is good, then turn the ignition off, and insert the stereo into the
dash plate.
Here's where things get a bit tricky: when I installed mine, AFTER I'd
completely reassembled everything, I could hear a vacuum leak behind the
stereo. It seems the wiring harness (possibly when I'd pulled the old
stereo), had pulled a hose from a vacuum line (I believe these are the hoses
for the vents). Before you screw everything back in (but with the stereo
pushed in), move the gear selector back to neutral and fire up the ignition
and listen for any vacuum hiss. Turn the ignition off. If you heard a hiss,
pull the stereo and reconnect the vacuum line (it is at a Y almost dead
centre of the back of the stereo compartment). I rerouted it behind the
wires entirely (it seems mine pulled free because one of the hoses had been
routed in front of one of the harness wires). Reinsert the stereo and
recheck.
Snap in the front trim (if your stereo has one), and test the clearance of
the removable faceplate. You DID get a removable faceplate stereo, didn't
you? If not, then you might find that you have to install the dash facing
and inserting the stereo THROUGH that - but otherwise, the instructions
should be about the same.
Now, you may find that you need to adjust the centering of the stereo a bit
(if you didn't get it right on above). Pop the dash facing and loosen the
screws enough to adjust the cage and nudge it as needed.
With the dash facing back in (you did check that all the wires and the fibre
optics were properly seated on the controls, didn't you?), and the stereo
fitted proper, you shoud be able to insert the nuts on each of the control
knobs and tighten (to get them to line up proper, you may find it handy to
take another fine-pointed tool and equalize the pressure on either side of
the nut as you begin the threading). Tighten (press in on the facing to
take up the slack), then replace the control knobs (the fan one should be
facing down when off).
Don't forget to place your gear selector back into park.
You're now ready to tour with quality tunes - well, assuming you listen to
quality music...
From: Sean.Straw+Jaguar@mail.professional.org (Sean Straw)
Subject: Stereo Install: 88 XJSC
STEREO CAR (stereo-side of harness)
Front Right (grey) red
Front Left (white) orange
Rear Right (purple) brown
Rear Left (green) green
Sean B. Straw
EMail to: Sean.Straw+Jaguar@mail.professional.org