Last modified 2005 APR 07 04:40:09 GMT |
Grille is removed. You need to do this in order to get to the bolts on
the front of the bonnet hinges. Put it in a safe place. In the process of
removing mine, I discovered that I was missing the middle top two screw
standoffs, so I ordered them from the local dealership (they're cheap). I
also went out and purchased a quantity of 3/16"x 1/2" allen-head stainless
bolts plus stainless washers to replace the phillips screws with. I think
the allen-head hardware looks a touch smarter, but the primary reason for
doing this is because the top row of screws is rather annoying to get at
with a screwdriver, whereas allen wrenches are right-angle tools, perfectly
suited for the job. If you don't understand what I mean now, when you're in
there getting the grille out, it'll come to you like an ephiphany.
The aforementioned stainless allen-head bolt hardware.
Personally, I like the look a touch better than the phillips head screws,
although the side profile sticks out a bit whereas the screws did not -- but
the ease of installing and removing them more than makes up for that minour
bit.
Remove the 1/2 inch bolt mounting the hydraulic lift to the side of the engine
compartment (I felt it was easier to cope with the bonnet while removing
these -- disconnecting the lift from the bonnet is a bit less convenient).
Be careful not to misplace the bolt or the washer. When lifting the bonnet
(with the help of an assistant), hold the strut up with one hand, so that it
doesn't drag. I placed the bonnet on a pair of sawhorses, making sure it was
stable.
Inside bonnet front. The bolts are accessible from the FRONT of the hinges,
and you'll remove them with the bonnet in the CLOSED position. You'll need
a helper to remove the bonnet. Before removing the bolts, you should score
or otherwise mark the position of the bonnet-to-hinge bolts (from the FRONT)
before removing them (this helps to re-align them). The hinge bolts are
visible on either side after you've removed the grille.
Bonnet removed. As much as I admire the V-12, I don't think I'll be driving
anywhere with it exposed for others to admire. That orange coil to the left
is a length of CAT-5 network cable (Helix Hi-Temp) which runs into the cabin,
giving me EIGHT low current conductors. It is there to facilitate future
projects. Below that is the alarm siren on a bracket that utilized existing
holes in the metal plate there so that there were no new holes drilled (this
is detailed on the alarm/keyless entry installation pages).
Take a moment to chase the threads on the bonnet bolts. Dunno about yours,
but a couple of mine were not particularly smooth on the trip out. When I
replaced mine, I also treated them with anti-sieze. These are 5/16-24 thread.
Sean B. Straw
EMail to: Sean.Straw+Jaguar@mail.professional.org